ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BUTTERFLY CUTS

What’s fun, full of volume and got stylists reaching for their heat tools? It can only be the butterfly cut. This pretty, eye-catching style has taken the beauty world by storm, amassing over 1.1 billion views on TikTok and captivating hairstylists and their clients alike.

What is a butterfly cut?

The butterfly cut, sometimes called the octopus haircut, is a unique blend of a shag haircut and long-layered hairstyles. It’s a versatile, layered style that blends elements of 70s shags and 90s layered looks, creating a modern, voluminous cut with a healthy dash of nostalgia.

At its core, the butterfly haircut features two distinct layer lengths:

• Shorter layers framing the face, typically falling between the cheekbones and jawline
• Longer layers that preserve overall length, usually below the shoulders

These short and long layers create the illusion of shorter hair while maintaining length, so styling is always stress-free and straightforward. The layers are cut to resemble butterfly wings, hence the name, with a rounded shape that adds maximum volume, texture and movement.

Are butterfly cuts the same as wolf cuts?

Unlike more dramatic layered styles like the wolf cut or shag, the butterfly haircut offers a softer, more polished appearance while still giving volume fans the movement and texture they crave.

A wolf cut combines elements of a mullet and shag, with more dramatic contrast between the top and bottom layers - and a butterfly cut has a softer transition between layers, maintaining a more cohesive, smooth overall shape.

Will I suit a butterfly cut?

The butterfly cut’s versatile, low maintenance, and adapts well to various hair types and face shapes.

Ideally, your hair should be at least shoulder-length to achieve the classic butterfly effect, with distinct short and long layers. However, skilled stylists can create modified versions for slightly shorter hair, and can even adapt the technique for chin-length bobs.

Butterfly cuts are also a great option for fine or thin hair. The butterfly’s layered structure adds volume and movement, creating the illusion of fuller, thicker hair. Your stylist can adjust the layering technique to suit your hair's density, ensuring you get the most flattering result.

If you’re thinking of trying out a butterfly cut with a fringe, it's crucial to consider your face shape:

• Oval faces: Can carry off most fringe styles, from curtain to blunt
• Round faces: Longer, side-swept fringes can help elongate your face
• Square faces: Soft, wispy fringes soften angular features
• Heart-shaped faces: Curtain fringes or side-swept styles balance wide foreheads
• Long faces: Blunt-cut fringes can create the illusion of a shorter face

How to ask your stylist for a butterfly cut

Effectively telling your stylist what you’re after is crucial to achieving the perfect butterfly haircut. Here's how to prepare for your appointment:

• Collect inspiration photos: Gather images of butterfly haircuts that appeal to you, focusing on those with similar hair type and face shape to yours
• Consider your lifestyle: Think about your daily routine and styling preferences
• Reflect on past haircuts: Note what you've liked or disliked about previous styles to guide your conversation

If your stylist needs more detail, these are the kind of features your butterfly cut should have:

• Face-framing layers that enhance your facial features
• Soft, feathered ends for a light, airy appearance
• Blended layers throughout for seamless transitions
• Volume at the crown and through the mid-lengths
• Ability to be styled sleek or with more texture

Butterfly cuts for different hair types

Just as the butterfly cut adapts effectively to various lengths, it also performs well across different hair textures.

Butterfly cut with straight hair

• Adds movement and dimension to otherwise flat-looking hair
• Creates the illusion of volume, especially at the crown
• Allows for easy styling with minimal effort

Styling tip: Use a volumising mousse at the roots and a large round brush when blow-drying to enhance the layered effect.

Butterfly cut with wavy hair

• Enhances natural wave patterns
• Reduces bulk in thicker wavy hair
• Creates a soft, romantic look with minimal styling

Styling tip: Scrunch in a curl defining spray to amplify waves and add texture to the layers.

Butterfly cut on curly hair

• Removes weight to allow curls to stay springy and maintain their shape
• Creates a flattering shape that frames your face
• Allows for versatile styling options, from defined curls to blown-out looks

Styling tip: Use a diffuser attachment when drying to enhance curl definition and reduce frizz.

Butterfly cut on fine hair

• Creates the appearance of fuller, thicker hair
• Adds bounce and movement
• Allows for voluminous styling without weighing hair down

Styling tip: Incorporate a root-lifting spray before blow-drying to maximise volume at the crown.

Butterfly cut on thick hair

• Removes bulk without sacrificing overall fullness
• Creates shape and movement in otherwise heavy hair
• Allows for easier styling and reduced drying time

Styling tip: Use a smoothing serum on mid-lengths and ends to control frizz and enhance shine.

How to style a butterfly cut

Mastering the art of styling your butterfly haircut at home is key to maintaining that salon-fresh look.

To recreate your stylist’s handiwork at home, you'll want to have these tools on hand:

• Large round brush: Essential for creating volume and shaping those face-framing layers
• Blow dryer with concentrator nozzle: Helps direct airflow for precise styling
• Velcro rollers: Great for setting voluminous curves in your layers
• Flat iron or curling wand: For touch-ups or creating additional texture

Heat-styling a butterfly cut

1. Start with damp, towel-dried hair and apply a heat protectant
2. Section your hair, starting at the nape of the neck and working upwards
3. Using your round brush, blow-dry each section, focusing on lifting at the roots for volume
4. Pay special attention to your face-framing layers, directing them away from your face to create the ‘butterfly’ effect
5. Once dry, set the top layers in large Velcro rollers for added lift and shape
6. Allow hair to cool completely before removing rollers
7. Finish with a light mist of flexible-hold hairspray

Remember to adapt your styling technique based on your hair texture. For fine hair, focus on root-lifting techniques. For thick hair, concentrate on smoothing and controlling frizz, and for curly hair, enhance your natural texture by diffusing or using a curl-defining cream.

Can I air-dry a butterfly haircut?

Yes, you can air-dry your butterfly cut, especially if you're looking for a more relaxed, tousled look.

Enhance your hair’s natural texture by applying a texturising spray or mousse to damp hair and allowing it to air-dry. This method works particularly well for people with naturally wavy or curly hair.

Maintaining a butterfly haircut

Proper maintenance is crucial to preserving this cut’s layered structure, and ensuring your butterfly cut continues to look fresh, cared for and voluminous. A well-maintained butterfly cut not only looks better but also grows out more gracefully, extending the life of your cut.

• Schedule trims every 6-8 weeks to maintain the shape of your layers
• If you’re growing out your hair, you can extend to 10-12 weeks between trims
• Consider more frequent fringe trims if you've gone for a style with a fringe
• To preserve your layer definition, use a wide-toothed comb or wet brush to detangle your hair, starting from the ends and working up
• Apply styling products in sections to ensure even distribution through layers, and refresh face-framing pieces with dry shampoo or texturising spray between washes